Arrived in Naples 14th February. Naples is a city less hit by tourism than others. There is tourism, don't get me wrong. The hordes at Pompeii attest to that (and this is the off season), but the Italian culture seems less affected. Very few spoke English and there were no maps or directions or tourist information (or if there was they didn't speak English!). There weren't the street stalls of tourist paraphernalia either. Instead, there was street pizza! And such good pizza it is! Walking down a street, I'd often pass a few Italians munching on pizza rolled up like a kebab in paper chatting to the stall owner. It was great.
I went to Pompeii and Herculaneum which are amazingly preserved. Amazing what hot pumice can do! Quite distressing seeing the plaster casts of the people of Pompeii. But especially a dog that was all twisted up and looked in agony. So horrific. I found myself feeling a bit less safe with Vesuvius looming above me. I wanted to climb Vesuvius but the mountain is currently snowcapped so it's not possible at this time of year. But a beautiful view. Looked like a mini Kilimanjaro.
I took a day trip along the Amalfi Coast. Being the off season, it is so quiet. No crowds of tourists at all. I met an Aussie guy called Rob and we got to Amalfi after a stunning bus ride around curving roads with steep cliffs. With the clear blue skies, the sea was a deep blue. So beautiful! I convinced Rob to join me going to Ravello, a village above Amalfi. The plan was to have lunch up there. Got there and everything was closed! But the views were amazing. Spent the next hour hungry climbing down MANY steps to Amalfi where we relaxed with red wine. It was difficult even to find a place there for lunch. So much was closed. Eventually feasted and left Rob in Amalfi and caught a bus back to Naples.
The next day I took a train to Rome. I got to Rome and checked in at the first hostel I came to. Don't know what it is about travel, but even though I was only sitting on the train the whole day (and some of that time I was sleeping), I rock up at destinations just knackered.
I spent 2 full days in Rome. Again got fab weather. Spent the first day wandering around Rome (lost for the most part since I lost my map at the start of the day). I started at piazza del popolo and got a beautiful view of the city. From there I was able to find the Spanish steps ok since it is a straight line so the 2 signs I saw were a help. The thing about Italy is: they are very good at signposting directions. That is until you get semi-close to your destination, then the signs stop and you are expected to use zen navigation or something. It can be more than a little frustrating when you know you are close but have know idea and you know that the wrong turn could take you further away!! Sometimes you can get close enough that the tourist stalls can act as a hot-cold type directional marker. I left the beautiful Spanish steps (where by the way, along with piazza del popolo, there is a column covered in Egyptian hieroglyphics. Nothing is written anywhere, does anyone know the history of this or were they stolen?). From the Spanish steps I tried to follow signs to the Trevi fountain. That just took me in a wide circle to piazza del popolo! Mapless, I gave up and took the metro the two stops to the Fountain. I got out and saw the little Triton Fountain and was nearly misled into thinking it was Trevi. But soon figured it out. Triton is worth a look though. Best torso on that sculpture of all the sculptures in Italy (nothing on David's hands though! More on that later!). Eventually found Trevi Fountain by following the increasing density of tourist stalls. Much bigger and more impressive (but not as good torsos).
Next stop was ancient Roman quarter but decided to go back to the hostel for another map on the way. The colosseum is huge and beautiful and it is quite amazing that all those ruins are so intact as they are. Ancient ruins interspersed with modern day Rome. It once again struck me that it is lucky that people realized the value of such things and they weren't demolished to make way for a shopping centre at some point (ok so some ruins had been removed to make a road but there is a lot still standing!).
That evening I lost my map again while looking for the Trastavere section of Rome to have dinner. Eventually found it (trastavere, not the map) and its beautiful narrow cobbled streets. I had the best Gnocchi ever but that may have been due to hunger after wandering lost for so long! Found myself a bit drunk accidentally breaking into Roman ruins a bit later but we won't go into that detail...
The next day I was to go to the Vatican city. I went with Alice, an English girl I met at the hostel. The metro wasn't working so it was a disgustingly crowded bus ride to a stop that was close (although we were unsure of that fact at the time). After nearly paying an exorbitant price for a guided tour, we were in the security line and I realized I wouldn't get in without relinquishing the Swiss army knife in my bag. Knowing what was more important to me, I left. The buses were just not coming and I knew they'd be full so I walked back to the hostel. It was a beautiful day and I decided not to rush such that I could then return to the Vatican. Instead I enjoyed the beautiful sunshine and felt that God bad told me not to bother. Such a lovely day it was. That night I went out with hostellers Alice and Ally and enjoyed a beer or two and discussed topics important topics such as men and war.
The next morning I caught a bus to Assisi. Assisi is a beautiful stone village on the side of a hill with a beautiful view of the valley below. It is the home of St Francis, patron saint of animals who turned his life from that of fun and frivolity to giving everything to those less fortunate and apparently was very gentle with animals and also helped them, something strange for someone of his time. The town of Assisi has beautiful narrow cobbled streets and a very unhelpful tourist info guy. After much walking I found my way to the railway station in lower Assisi and caught the train to Florence.
To an Artsy Fartsy person, Florence is heaven. As all know, I am not Artsy Fartsy (except for my music appreciation), but even I loved the sculptures in Florence. It is beautiful. And as with all Italian cities, such a beautiful atmosphere. My sole reason for visiting Florence was to see Michelangelo's sculpture of David. I was told by my friend Emma that he will ruin all men for me since he is perfect. So why I visited I don't know. Since visiting him, I can't stop thinking I do want a man with hands like his. They are remarkable! Big and strong and perfect! Anyway, enough about that! That night I met 2 American girls (Meaghan and Jennifer) and got quite drunk with Meaghan. The next day we all went together to Pisa. There isn't much in Pisa except a tower that's a bit skew wiff. So I had lunch with Meaghan and Jennifer then headed to Venice.
Venice is all the pictures suggest. It is gorgeous. And no cars. Quite surreal really but also natural. I spent a day walking the narrow streets which can soon get you lost so easily (but by now I was holding onto my map firmly!). I caught a cheap gondola ride to gross grand canal and bought some fruit and pistacchios at a market then walked to the basilica of Saint Mark where I ate food in the square surrounded by pigeons who saw me as an easy target. I was amazed with the basilica. Many of the frescoes in there (especially on the domed ceilings), are made totally of mosaic. Quite amazing work!
I wandered around Venice soaking up the atmosphere, getting more lost, eating more gelato and listening to Italian composers on my iPhone. That afternoon I caught a boat to the outer islands of Burano and Torcello. Torcello is the oldest Venetian settlement but was abandoned due to decreasing trade and risks of Malaria due to its marshlands. I think there were 5 people in a bar there when I visited and that was it. Being the off season and late afternoon, it was like a ghost town!
The next day I caught a train to Slovenia. Italian part of the tour was over :(. But Slovenia is even better! :). But that is for the next installment!
